Townships Near Cape Town

This morning, we left early to see the view from Table Mountain. This mountain is the giant, flat-topped mountain that backs the city into the sea, and it is huge. We had hoped to go all the way to the top via cable car, but unfortunately, the cable car wasn't running today (everything is shut down for repair). So we drove up to the highest point we could and stopped to take some pretty breath-taking photos. We could see the entire bay, with the city curving below us. We could see back to Lion's Head, the other, more spiky smaller mountain nearby. The ocean and sky were bright blue, and the sun was really bright. Except for the fact that the sun was in our eyes in one direction, it was really lovely.

Then we went to the other side of Lion's Head, and walked along the ridge. This allowed us to see into the next bay over, and get the rest of the city in view. We also looked down almost directly on the monster new soccer stadium being constructed for the 2010 FIFA World Cup Championship. We could see Robben Island way out in the bay. We watched, for a while, some men who were preparing to jump off the side of the mountain with only a parachute. We waited and waited, but the wind was never just right, and finally we got tired of waiting and left them behind.

By mid-morning, we turned our attention back to our class topics, and had a chance to walk through the area of the city called the Bo-Kaap. This area was settled in the early 1800's by the newly freed slaves the British had brought from the West Indies. When Britain outlawed slavery in 1814, they also took responsibility for their former slaves and built them this neighborhood. The houses still stand, amongst mosques and small shops, but now they are mostly painted bright colors. It's funny to see these houses built in the time of Jane Austen, and in similar style, now beautfully painted such bright colors!

From there, we left Cape Town center and drove up through a mountain pass to the area behind Table Mountain, a place they call the Cape Flats. Flat it is, and not particularly pleasant. While the land in front of the mountain is lovely and verdant, planted with trees and flowers and filled with beautiful houses and buildings, gently sloping down to the ocean, the area behind the mountain is scrubby, sandy, and poorer. There is not even the smallest glimpse of the ocean. It is here that the Apartheid government built a number of townships for Colored people and for Black people. We got to visit the township of Langa, where we had the chance to walk through the market and talk with people. We also got to visit the lovely community center, where people come to learn crafts which they then practice in order to sell goods to support themselves and their families. We got to see the ceramic studio and the iron working area, and we also got to hear a short performance piece telling an old traditional tale. And some of us bought lovely crafts that had been produced by the collective there. What was very interesting about these crafts was that they weren't just producing more of the expected traditional carvings and jewelry, but instead were melding tradition with art and coming up with some really unique items. It was nice knowing that by shopping for gifts there that we were also supporting this community center, located in the midst of such poverty.

We also visted Guguletu, another Township, and we noticed that the townships are extremely vibrant and interesting places. There are areas which are essentially shantytowns, with tiny mean little shacks, some with only plastic sheeting for a roof. Other areas of the townships have nice-by-any standards middle class homes (behind fencing and protective metalwork gates). And there are a number of areas with one room homes built by the Apartheid goverment, and the houses are still standing. And then there are the new houses. The ANC government began in 1994 on their greatest project, to build decent housing for the people of South Africa, and we could see some of the fruits of that project in the Townships. We could see blocks of neat apartment buildings, rows of townhouses, and neighborhoods of small houses mixed in with all the other housing. It makes such an interesting mix.

We stopped at a restaurant in the township called Lalepa, inside someone's home. The woman who owned the home, Wendy, moved into the township in 1960 after being resettled by the government. Over time, she began running a restaurant there, and now she has added a number of rooms in a sort of haphazard way. The food was traditional African, served in a buffet, with lots of delicious dishes. Dessert was a type of gingerbread cake that gets drizzled with syrup while it is still hot. It's quite sweet and very good as sweet things go. Throughout lunch, we were entertained by a marimba band (with 3 marimabas and several traditional African drums). It was a lot of fun, and they ended by playing The Star Spangled Banner, which our students spontaneously began to sing. We then asked them to play the South African national anthem, which they did, and we were surprised when everyone around us stopped and joined in singing. We had been singing our anthem in a fun way, but they were passionate and serious about singing theirs. It was a touching moment. Of course, the anthem is from the new South Africa, and has at the heart of it the idea of freedom for all. Given all that we have seen, learned, and experienced here so far, it's easy to see how the idea of freedom takes on a particularly special meaning.

Tomorrow is free time. Students are shark diving, going to the beach, shopping for presents, and maybe even hiking up Table Mountain. Andi is going with the professors to Cape Point to see two oceans meet. We are winding down, and having a lovely time. More later.